Month: February 2016

Do we need critical fashion journalism?

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Last week, I was pretty surprised to come across Business of Fashion’s article, Take Me To Church, which describes some of Alexander Wang’s choices as ‘obvious’ and ‘self-conscious’. It was totally right, and something I think every time I see that totally overdone punks-in-church trope. But what struck me was that for all the blogs I follow, I very rarely see anything that openly critcises designers.

I suppose most of this is down the fact that a lot of media is really advertising dressed up as journalism, so there’s a lot of tip-toeing going on. I guess anything truly horrible would just be ignored.

In a way that’s good; why dwell on things you don’t like when you can celebrate the things that you do? There’s a time and a place for criticism, though, and the lack of it is probably what sets the fashion world apart from other commercial industries like cinema and fine art. It’s a given that films need to pull in audiences to create profit, but it isn’t dismissed as vapid the way fashion is, and this is in part due to the fact that most media outlets do little more than praise whatever they’re being paid to promote.

The is fine to an extent- magazines don’t really exist to ask these questions, which is why we need sources like Business of Fashion, where writers can take a step back and look at collections more objectively. This benefits all of us; the industry’s legitimacy is reinforced, a forum for discussion is created, and sometimes you just need to call a spade a spade, especially when it’s a sweatshirt tucked into sweatpants, because what the fuck even is that?

-Niko

 

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Fashion notes #1

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I started typing ‘blogspot’ into the search bar, blogging so sporadically I forgot which platform I use.

Remember Miranda Priestly’s *cerulean* rant in The Devil Wears Prada? I totally get it now. Like, I got it before, but now I extra get it.

Cast your mind back to around a year ago. Valentino’s pre-fall 15 collection was released, memorable for its Primavera-inspired prints and embroidery, designed by Celia Birtwell. I spent a lot of time stood outside the boutique in Florence, lusting over a pair of boots. I could have stared at them for days. Not long afterwards, Zara, in all its fast-fashion glory, had clear rip-offs on its shop floors. Props to you, Zara. Always on the beat.

I’d more or less forgotten about this until a couple of weeks ago, when I saw this dress in H&M:

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Then this bag last week, in the window of Accessorize:

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I’m sure if I ever deign to step foot in Primark, there’ll be something similar printed onto some shapeless piece of viscose. Anyway, my point isn’t to make fun of that shop. Mostly, I just want to explore the fascinating way in which catwalk trends filter their way down into the mass markets, until we’re all so completely sick of them that we have to fall in love with something else (but I will love you forever, Sandro.)

I propose we all choose one key catwalk motif, and keep an eye on it as we watch it go through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin, then compare notes in a year’s time, yes?

-Niko

January Review

wp-1454439809432.jpgIt’s good to keep check on my goals, isn’t it? That way I can track my progress.

I’m doing well, I think. I haven’t quite curtailed my spending, but my savings account is slowly growing with each payday, and I’m way ahead of schedule with that. I want to have enough for a few months’ rent by the time I’ve graduated, so I don’t have to worry as soon as I arrive back in Florence. Also I read about fuck-off funds a couple of weeks ago and I think it’s something that every young person needs to aim for.

Academically, I’ve improved massively on time management, and I’m not overwhelmed trying to balance work, a social life, and my studies. I still need to improve here, in fact, I’m procrastinating a little bit by writing this because I have two presentations this week and I haven’t even finished all my reading. Heh. That’s something I can work on. I haven’t been using my notebook much as an organisation tool, but that’s fine as long as I’m not being a total scatterbrain.

Personally, I feel good. Great, even. I don’t know what subconscious weight has been lifted from my chest, but whatever it was, it isn’t dragging me down anymore. I feel really optimistic about the future, because I know there’s so much to look forward to, even though some things are a long way away. I suppose then that I’m getting better at being patient, because I can deal with that wait.

Blog-wise… yeah I know. Soz. :))) Also I haven’t been running for a while so I’ll go tonight.

– Niko